Indianie Tarahumara

24-3-2016

 


Mimo porannego chłodu, nie tracąc czasu, wybieram się na wczoraj zaplanowaną wędrówkę w kierunku lago (jeziora) Arareko. Z asfaltowej ulicy prowadzącej przez miasto, skręcam na utwardzoną drogę w kierunku cmentarza, a za nim już tylko wydeptaną ścieżką przez kamieniste wzniesienia, docieram do rozległych terenów zamieszkałych przez Indian Tarahumara, o czym świadczą z rzadka pobudowane drewniane chaty. Będąc na ich terenie nie sposób nie wspomnieć w kilku słowach kim byli i kim są włodarze tych ziem. Otóż Indianie plemienia Tarahumara obok około 90 innych plemion od zarania dziejów zamieszkiwali w szczęściu i spokoju obecny stan Chihuahua. Spokój ten został brutalnie zburzony, gdy hiszpańscy koloniści odkryli na tych terenach srebro i podbijając Indian zmuszali ich do nadludzkiej pracy przy jego wydobywaniu. Wojownicy Tarahumara nie poddając się niewoli chwycili za broń i przez wieki walcząc z najeźdźcą, wychodząc nierzadko zwycięsko z krwawych walk, doprowadzili do uznania ich za bodaj jedynych, którzy nigdy nie zostali pokonani. Drugą znamienną cechą wojowników, po których ziemiach właśnie kroczę, są wprost nieograniczone predyspozycje do długodystansowego biegania po trudnym (pustynia, góry) terenie. Określa się ich czasem mianem Raramuri, co w dosłownym tłumaczeniu znaczy „ten który szybko biega”. Prawdopodobnie ta umiejętność w znacznym stopniu przyczyniła się do sukcesów w potyczkach z dużo wolniejszymi Hiszpanami.
Tego czego nie udało lub udawało się bardzo marnie żołnierzom, próbowali przy użyciu innych sposobów dokonać księża i misjonarze. Skutek równie lichy, ale za to pozostałości tych działań przetrwały po dziś. Jedną z nich jest misja San Ignacio, od kórej dzielą mnie jeszcze bodaj dwa kilometry piaszczystą ścieżką.

Tuż przed wyłaniającą się w dole wieżą kościoła, po prawej stronie, dostrzegam jeszcze jedną niespodziankę. U podnóża wyrzeźbionych w niesamowity sposób przez naturę kamieni Valle de los Hongos, z dala od „dobrodziejstw” cywilizacji leży sobie mała indiańska wioska. Nic nie byłoby w tym dziwnego, przecież jestem na terenie Indian, gdyby nie to, że przyglądając się jej z dala mam wrażenie, że czas zatrzymał się tu kilkaset lat temu. Nie mogę się powstrzymać by nie podejść bliżej. Ba – nie tylko bliżej, ale nawet do samego jej środka. Nie widać tu wielu ludzi, a ci co są nie tylko nie wydają się być wrogo nastawieni lecz wręcz odwrotnie. Z uśmiechem pozdrawiają, pozwalają fotografować swoje domostwa, a nawet i siebie i pewnie cieszy ich moja inność tak samo jak mnie ich.

Z wioski schodzę stromym zboczem w kierunku misji San Ignacio, która w środku tego pustkowia pełni coś w rodzaju centrum kulturowo-gospodarczego. Oprócz starego XVII-wiecznego kościoła jest tu jeszcze małe boisko do koszykówki, sklep i chyba najbardziej ulubiona zabawa małych indiańskich chłopców, automat do gier. Taki sam jak pamiętam z moich dziecięcych czasów. Przyglądam się temu wszystkiemu z poczuciem nie tylko przeniesienia w czasie, ale i w przestrzeni. Do tej pory zupełnie nie zdawałem sobie sprawy, że gdziekolwiek na naszej planecie mogą znajdować się jeszcze tak zdumiewające okolice. Pozwalam czarowi chwili trwać tak długo jak tylko mam na to ochotę, a nasyciwszy się tą, zdawałoby się pozaziemską energią miejsca, ruszam dalej.

Wczorajszy plan zakładał spacer do misji lub dalej do jeziora Ararako. Wychodzi na to, że decyduję się na lub. Pozostawiając misję za plecami, mijając kolorowy od różnobarwnych krzyży indiański cmentarz (wspominałem będąc w San Juan de Chamula, że kolor krzyża oznacza wiek zmarłego), wspinam się na niewielką górę, z której jeszcze raz podziwiam oddalony już kościół San Ignacio i znalazłszy się po drugiej stronie, maszerując między korytami wyschniętych rzek, po niespełna godzinie dochodzę do jeziora Ararako. Jako, że samo jezioro i okolice, oprócz kilkunastu handlujących w cieniu drzew Indianek w tradycyjnych barwnych strojach, nie proponuje nic szczególnego, przeto po krótkiej przerwie wracam tą samą drogą do Creel.

W Hostelu, naturalnie spotkanie z moimi nowymi przyjaciółmi z Ameryki, którzy równie jak ja wybrali się na wycieczkę ale w innym kierunku. Znowu mamy sobie dużo do opowiadania. Potem już niestety tylko pożegnanie, wymiana adresów tych realnych i tych wirtualnych (fb), zaproszenie do odwiedzin w San Diego i moje przyrzeczenie, że jak los pozwoli to z pewnością nie omieszkam (dostaję na tę okoliczność numer telefonu), uścisk i tradycyjne – trzymajcie się ciepło. Było bardzo miło, ale cóż... czas leci, świat się nie kończy, jadę dalej. Jeszcze raz serdecznie pozdrawiam Jurku i Andrzeju, dziękując za wspólnie spędzony czas.

Następnego dnia gwizd tej samej lokomotywy co onegdaj na dworcu w El Fuerte, wyrywa mnie z magicznego stanu jaki się miewa ilekroć przebywa się w magicznym miejscu (Creel na pewno takim jest), każe zająć miejsce, w którymś z właśnie zatrzymanych przy peronie wagonów, jeszcze raz rzucić okiem na siedzących po drugiej stronie ulicy niezwyciężonych wojowników Tarahumara, ich przyodziane w kolorowe stroje żony i umorusane dzieci i odjechać w dół, najpierw po samochód do El Fuerte, a potem przez Niską Kalifornię dalej w Into the World.

249_indianie Tarahumara_01.jpg
Valle de los Hongos


249_indianie Tarahumara_02.jpg
Indiańska wioska w pobliżu misji San Ignacio


249_indianie Tarahumara_03.jpg


249_indianie Tarahumara_04.jpg


249_indianie Tarahumara_05.jpg


249_indianie Tarahumara_06.jpg


249_indianie Tarahumara_07.jpg


249_indianie Tarahumara_08.jpg
Kościół San Ignacio


249_indianie Tarahumara_09.jpg
Misja San Ignacio de Ararako


249_indianie Tarahumara_10.jpg
Indianka plemienia Tarahumara


249_indianie Tarahumara_11.jpg
Niewysocy Indianie na pewno mają trudniej wepchnąć piłkę do kosza


249_indianie Tarahumara_12.jpg
Jedyny sklep w promieniu kilku kilometrów


249_indianie Tarahumara_13.jpg


249_indianie Tarahumara_14.jpg
Ciut zachodniej cywilizacji w indiańskim "centrum kultury"


249_indianie Tarahumara_15.jpg
Indianie Tarahumara potrafią pokonywać olbrzymie odległości


249_indianie Tarahumara_16.jpg
Indiański cmentarz koło misji


249_indianie Tarahumara_17.jpg
Widok na misję San Ignacio (po prawej)


249_indianie Tarahumara_18.jpg


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Lago Ararako


249_indianie Tarahumara_20.jpg
Indianie wokół lago Ararako


 


 
 
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~6R55zLgt, 21-05-2017
~qY14yflWNE, 20-05-2017
~3pYGGqk5yqF, 17-05-2017
~EZgf2W2o, 17-05-2017
~jOXjICqXPP, 16-05-2017
~hzc9v2oVFPev, 16-05-2017
~p0ROWmKKvj, 15-05-2017
~bLWmCoWhKUvI, 15-05-2017
~1SSRKizni, 11-05-2017
~WqMMeFjSbRqh, 08-05-2017
~wcPXSANcZRj, 07-05-2017
~ZE0vixN2L8DR, 06-05-2017
~zMtoZyhA, 05-05-2017
~uOTQcedyAr, 05-05-2017
~ZUggY1OaU, 04-05-2017
~wTKTX0uFKtLS, 01-05-2017
~KI9jwDN8QrNk, 01-05-2017
~nqPaLiCas, 01-05-2017
~5YbU4g6i0H, 01-05-2017
~CgAZKyRmfX9G, 01-05-2017
~p2pNnVt7wiR, 30-04-2017
~idtnuIgyt, 30-04-2017
~2X5raM06mSZ, 30-04-2017
~TwlT8EThaHnO, 30-04-2017
~ipB11H6aEQXy, 29-04-2017
~h5byM0dFvK, 29-04-2017
~I8i5sIpUzE, 29-04-2017
~jrjj6J2an, 29-04-2017
~vB8MKpSh2I0P, 29-04-2017
~BotIXduU, 29-04-2017
~1Wss0LA8t, 29-04-2017
~4bFSrrbqPyD, 29-04-2017
~BNCUPCcwE7, 29-04-2017
~39CsA3EIeBGE, 28-04-2017
~Lmr9SJrf, 28-04-2017
~AfEvzkTXw41Q, 28-04-2017
~HNAlhurWfE2G, 27-04-2017
~KzZGl2Qu, 26-04-2017
~1qYYbHlPfk0, 25-04-2017
~ljb6Vv7AA, 23-04-2017
~joDBgPjbyrCX, 23-04-2017
~09m3o518, 22-04-2017
~HfJPFPXTk, 18-04-2017
~tgZqNyIMX, 16-04-2017
Good to see a tanlet at work. I can't match that.
~qsIm59lQPwWA, 13-04-2017
Don’t forget tp ask all of your design and real estate questions… we will answer any and all on Webisode Weydesdans… (click here and here).
~Halina, 03-04-2017
Ja pochłaniam te opowieści jak gąbka wodę. Grzeją moje serce. Pisze Pan pięknie, ciekawie. Zdjęcia tez piękne. Czekam na więcej.
~Jeniula, 16-03-2017
Swietny tekst, swietne zdjecia (szczegolnie to 4te, no i ta Indianka z Dzidzia :) ) - pewnie swietne miejsce!!!